![]() ![]() ![]() Garnishing the noodles were clusters of micro cilantro, and we were encouraged to squeeze halved key limes into the soup. An orange oil made from the crustaceans’ shells perfumed the broth, made with the post-extraction shells and chicken, with the luscious aroma of shrimp heads. In late summer, it was ebi shio - noodles in a translucent salt-seasoned broth paired with spot prawns and meaty New Caledonian blue shrimp. The creamy texture, achieved when the liquid egg yolk mingled with the hot beef fat, was akin to carbonara bits of chopped raw onion, soaked in water to take the edge off, kept the richness from getting overwhelming. ![]() In the spring, it was abura soba, a brothless and oilier version of ramen - noodles bound with Wagyu beef fat and topped with a gooey slow-poached egg, bamboo shoots and fatty slices of picanha, or the top sirloin cap, cooked sous vide. It will likely be the best ramen you’ve ever had. The actual climax of the 10-course tasting menu is more subtle: a combination of well-sourced ingredients and superior, even geeky, technique that add up to a quality of ramen you won’t find anywhere outside of Japan. You might think that the price would indicate something gaudy and ridiculous, like noodles spun from edible gold and topped with braised white rhino and nori harvested by virgins from an ancient seabed. It’s a total oddball, but I am here to tell you that it absolutely works. In this context, the ticket price at Noodle in a Haystack, opened by married couple Yoko and Clint Tan in San Francisco’s Richmond District in the spring, can seem shocking: $175 for a ramen tasting menu? Locally, acclaimed shops like Ramen Nagi and Mensho Tokyo average about $15-$20 a bowl. If luxury is on the mind, it’s in the form of a last-minute cracked egg, its wispy, semi-translucent whites swimming in the broth, or a Kraft single slowly melting over the noodles.īut even “high end” from-scratch ramen remains a proletarian pursuit: In Tokyo, the Michelin-starred ramen shops ask you to order your $10 bowls via ticket machine. It’s the activation of an electric kettle, the unwrapping of crunchy plastic packaging, the timed wait as dry fried noodles and desiccated chunks of carrot plump up in boiling water. ![]() Carlos Avila Gonzalez/The Chronicle Show More Show Lessįew dishes so successfully straddle the low and high ends of the culinary spectrum as ramen.įor most people, our interactions with ramen - and the universe of instant noodle varieties that sprang from it - are a practiced set of movements that take place in our home kitchens. Noodle in a Haystack is a tasting menu-style restaurant where the owners serve an exceptionally geeky take on ramen. Carlos Avila Gonzalez/The Chronicle Show More Show Less 5 of5Ī diner prepares to pick up a shrimp to add to the noodles in Ebi Shio Ramen. Carlos Avila Gonzalez/The Chronicle Show More Show Less 4 of5Ĭlint Tan separates scallion flowers at Noodle in a Haystack, a home for ambitious and upscale ramen in the Richmond District. Pre-cooked ramen noodles prepared before dinner. Carlos Avila Gonzalez/The Chronicle Show More Show Less 3 of5 Yoko and Clint Tan initially started Noodle in a Haystack as a pop-up out of their Daly City home before opening the San Francisco restaurant this year. Carlos Avila Gonzalez/The Chronicle Show More Show Less 2 of5 ![]()
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